What I used to make this nappy:
Absorbing fabric should be as close to 100% cotton as possible. The outside layer
can be polyester (won't absorb, though)
* 50 x 50 cm piece of fabric is plenty for EACH piece of nappy body (you should
get two out of a 90 cm wide fabric - so, for 1 m of 90 cm wide fabric you would
get 4 pieces of nappy body)
* internal soaker pad was about 10 x 35 cm (multiply by as many layers as you
want) Anything absorbent (e.g. hemp, sherpa, flannelette, towelling)
* fold out soaker pad was slightly smaller than the internal pad (if you don't
have an overlocker, hemp will not fray - a zig-zag stitch along the edges will
* 10 x 35 cm piece of microfleece is plenty if you want to fleece top your fold
* 17 cm loop tape for top tummy piece
* 13 cm loop tape for lower tummy piece
* 7 cm loop tape for cross-over on arm (total 37 cm loop)
* 7 cm hook tape on each arm (total 14 cm hook)
* 13 cm elastic across the back
* 18 cm elastic on each leg (total 49 cm elastic)
Optional Steps 1 and 2 if you want to add a sewn in soaker pad (slows drying
Sew as many layers as you want together. I have an overlocker, so I overlocked
the edges (I imagine straight machine sewing would be fine)
Pin the soaker pad to the wrong side of the nappy body piece that will go against
bub's skin. (or, if you are sewing 3 layers of nappy body together, sew it
on the middle layer so that your stitching is hidden)
Machine sew on. (I used straight stitch)
Pin wrong sides of the nappy body together.
Stitch around the nappy body leaving a gap along the tummy (I leave a gap about
8 cm wide). I used an overlocker to do this step - straight stitch will be fine.
You may like to snip the corners with cuts perpendicular to the stitches at the
corners to help with turning.
Hmm, no photo, sorry.
Using your pattern, mark the start and finish points for the elastic on your
fabric with pins. Using the pin at the start, attached the elastic to the
fabric. Use a few forward and reverse stitches (I use a 3 stitch zig-zag)
to secure the elastic to the nappy. Now, continue to sew the elastic on,
stretching the elastic as you go. When you reach "end" pin, do
some reverse stitches. Then, cut off the rest of the elastic. (I prefer to
use Lastin as it's not a bulky in the seam - I've used 6 mm swimsuit elastic
here so that you can see it)
Turn the nappy right-side out, carefully turning at the corners. Fold over
fabric at the gap and pin closed. Straight stitch over sew around the whole
of the nappy.
Optional Step 7: if you want a fold out soaker pad.
I made up a soaker pad using a couple of layers of cotton and a layer of fleece
on top. I overlocked the edges - I've done this step before with a sewing machine
(using the overlock stitch - straight, straight, straight, zig, zag), it did
need trimming after washing. I found that hemp is marvelous as it doesn't fray
like flannelette/towelling. This fold out soaker is a bit crooked (the trouble
with trying to watch the Rugby at the same time!).
Ah, the velcro - my most hated part. I always find it difficult getting it straight,
and I find the hook frequently catches the thread and snaps it. Grr! I decided
to use narrow loop on the tummy with a gap between the two pieces so that it
could be folded down to cater for a smaller rise for a smaller bubby. It is worthwhile
rounding the corners of the velcro. I sew it on using a 3 step zig zag.
Here are some photos of it as a smaller, medium and larger size.
From playing with the velcro, stretching and measuring, it looks like it might
fit waist: 34 - 53 cm, thigh: 20 - 35 cm, rise: 36 - 43 cm
Instructions Courtesy of Leanne (Dunners)