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Sewing a Pocket Nappy with Gussets, a step by step guide.


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Fabric & Notions:
For this nappy I used a waterproof layer and print velvet outer (partly because I have plenty of waterproof fabric and didn't want to waste PUL if it didn't work for me, and also to show how to do the back elastic if you use 2 layers for the outside of the pocket). So, the fabric required for this is the same as for the other pocket instructions..

* 50 cm x 53 cm piece of PUL (or of polar fleece and waterproof nylon)
* 25 cm x 10 cm scrap of PUL if you are using polarfleece & waterproof nylon for the outer layer
* 50 cm x 53 cm piece of microfleece (or microsuede)
* 35 cm x 9 cm piece of scrap microfleece or PUL to reinforce the PUL at the snap/loop point (you don't need this for a fleece & nylon pocket)
* approx 1.5 m of fold over elastic (FOE)
* approx 50 cm of 1" aplix loop tape (or 25 cm of 2" loop tape)
* approx 30 cm of 1" hook tape (or 16 cm of 2" hook tape)
* optional (as I have done) 25 cm of lastin for the pocket

Step 1: Cutting out the gussets
A gusset pattern piece for the medium to large sized pocket can be found on the Wee Weka Fitted/Pocket pattern. If you cut your own gusset piece it should be about 5 cm at its widest point.
If you are using PUL cutting the gusset is easy - you can use fabric from where you've cut out the leg part of the pattern. (If you have used polarfleece & waterproof nylon you will need to find a scrap piece of PUL to use).

the pattern

Step 2: Sewing the FOE onto the gussets
Stretch the FOE as much as it can go and pin along the straight side of the gusset. Sew on the FOE stretching the FOE as you go (I use a zig-zag stitch - I have seen straight stitch used on other items)

sewing the gusset

The finished gusset

finished gusset

Step 3: Preparing the back pocket
This is a photo of the back of a Stuffables Pocket nappy.

back elastic for a Stuffables

It has FOE gathering the waterproof layer, and the microfleece layer is not gathered. Personally, I prefer to have the microfleece layer gathered as it helps keep the insert in (and stops skin touching the PUL). So, I decided to do the back of the pocket like I do for a "stitch & turn" pocket. Here is a photo of the back elastic on the waterproof layer (note I've treated the nylon and print fabric as one fabric).

back elastic for pocket

Step 4:Tummy time
Pin and sew on the tummy loop tape or add your snaps. I have used 2 rows of 1" aplix - yummy soft tape! I have taken it to the edges as the FOE will cover the edges.
Trim the tape so that it is the same shape as the edge of the fabric (forgot to take a photo of that, sorry!)
Sew on the loop tape (I use a 3 step zig-zag). If using 2 strips of 1" tape, don't forget to sew the two layers together too.

adding velcro

Step 5: Wrong sides together
Pin or clip the layers of wrong sides together. Straight stitch around the whole of the nappy. Serge the edges with an overlocker if you like (not necessary though).

sewing wrong sides together

Step 6: Adding the gussets
I used safety pins to mark where the gathering of the legs should start and end. I then used dressmaking pins to mark the start and end of where the gussets should be placed. (sorry it's blurry!)

marking gusset

Attach the gusset at the start and end, pinning it on the microfleece liner side, with the side of the PUL that will touch the leg, on the microfleece side. Stretch the gusset out and pin along the length to make sewing easier. When you are happy with it, sew each gusset onto the nappy.

pinning gusset

Step 7: Adding the hook tape
I forgot to do this bit - so I decided to unpick the FOE as I wanted the FOE to cover the edges of the hook tape (definitely worth doing IMO). I used 2" wide hook tape that I had on hand, you could use 2 strips of 1" instead.
Sew with straight stitch around the whole piece of hook tape

sewing on FOE

Step 8: Final step!
Because of the way I like the opening for the back pocket, I had an obvious beginning & end for the FOE. I folded over the edge of the FOE and pinned it on. I used a simple zig-zag to sew it on around the nappy. Once I reached the safety pin markers I stretched the FOE as far as it would go to gather at the legs. Once I reached the "end" maker safety pin, I stopped stretching the FOE and kept moving around. At the other side of the pocket (the end), I cut the FOE, folded some under and finished it off.

The final product:
The outside stuffed with a medium/regular prefold

outside finished

The inside (not that you can see much since it is all white.

inside finiished

Instructions Courtesy of Leanne (Dunners)

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